7th Arrondissement
Thu 12 May 2022
(*, C) L’Arpège
84, rue de Varenne. 01 47 05 09 06.
Mon–Fri, lunch and dinner.
Humble vegetables achieve new heights in the hands of Alain Passard at L’Arpège, one of the most elegant (and expensive) tables in Paris. A Michelin three-star.
(*, T) L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon
5–7, rue de Montalembert. 01 42 22 56 56.
Daily, lunch and dinner.
The counter seating snakes around the kitchen at this chic address, where you can watch as a skilled army prepares the modern French food that has made Robuchon so famous. Reservations only accepted for the first seating at lunch and dinner; otherwise be prepared to wait.
(C) Au Bon Accueil
14, rue de Monttessuy. 01 47 05 46 11.
Mon–Fri, lunch; Mon–Sat, dinner.
The accueil (welcome) is indeed warm at this solid bistro, which feels elegant enough for a special occasion. The prices are high à la carte, but the 31 euro dinner menu is a bargain, particularly for an address in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower.
(D) Bellota-Bellota
18, rue Jean Nicot. 01 53 59 96 96.
Tues–Sat, 11 a.m.–11 p.m.
Pata negra, the great Iberian ham, is the star at this exquisite épicerie. Take your treats to go, or take a seat at the counter for an apéro and a snack.
(S) Les Botanistes
11 bis, rue Chomel. 01 45 49 04 54.
Mon–Sat, lunch and dinner.
You’ll find traditional bistro fare with a light touch and quality ingredients at this charming address near the Bon Marché, perfect for a preshopping lunch. Read a full review here.
(*, C) Chez l’Ami Jean
27, rue Malar. 01 47 05 86 89.
Tues–Sat, lunch and dinner.
Not for the faint of heart or appetite, Stéphane Jego’s bold and creative Basque cooking continues to draw raves. Read a full review here.
(*, S) Les Cocottes
135, rue St.-Dominique. 01 45 50 10 31.
Mon–Sat, lunch and dinner. No reservations.
Most everything on the menu is served in cast-iron cookware (cocottes) by Staub. A gimmick? Maybe, but the food is not. The impeccable kitchen turns out thoughtful, unpretentious food in short order, at very reasonable prices. Read a full review here.
(C) Les Fables de la Fontaine
131, rue St.-Dominique. 01 44 18 37 55.
Daily, lunch and dinner.
It’s all about seafood at this elegant restaurant run by some of Christian Constant’s best students. Just remember: fish this fresh is not free.
(C) La Fontaine de Mars
129, rue St.-Dominique. 01 47 05 46 44.
Daily, lunch and dinner.
Classics like steak frites, duck confit and chicken with morels are on the menu at this perpetual favorite. The Obamas ate here on a recent trip to Paris.
(T) Il Vino
13, blvd de la Trip Maubourg. 01 44 11 72 00.
Daily, lunch and dinner.
At Il Vino sommelier Enrico Bernardo turns the idea of wine pairings on its head: the wine is chosen first, and the food—modern Italian—follows. Expensive.
(T, S) La Laiterie Ste.-Clotilde
64, rue de Bellechasse. 01 45 51 74 61.
Mon–Fri, lunch; Mon–Sat, dinner.
This tiny, well-priced bistro, offering playful takes on home cooking, injects a cheeky dose of hip into the normally staid 7th.
(V) La Poule au Pot
121, rue de l’Université. 01 47 05 16 36.
Simple, affordable bistro with a friendly staff. Enjoy the poule au pot—their specialty, of course—which is like your grandmother’s chicken stew (if you had a French grandmother): chicken with potatoes, leeks, carrots and turnips in a light broth served with a terrific cornichon-caper-shallot sauce. You even get a candle and a tablecloth, all for a mere 20 euros, which was the prix fixe the last time we were there. Pichets de vin (pitchers of house wine) are good and cheap!
(G) Sancerre
22, ave Rapp. 01 45 51 75 91.
An old-fashioned wine bar specializing in oysters and Sancerre (red or white)—very near the Eiffel Tower.
(C) Thoumieux
79, rue St.-Dominique. 01 47 05 49 75.
Open every day, 12–3 p.m. and 7–11 p.m.
A venerable Paris brasserie revamped by former Hôtel de Crillon chef Jean-François Piège, Thoumieux is working out kinks in the menu. Best to try the starter: calamari à la carbonara with smoky pancetta, cream and egg yolk. The scallops, with a side of frisée salad, make a delicious main course. Wall-to-wall mirrors, red velour banquettes and chandeliers envelop you in art deco ambience. See GG2P food writer Meg Zimbeck’s review.
(*) Le Violon d’Ingres and Les Cocottes
135, rue St. Dominique. 01 45 55 15 05.
Café Constant
139, rue St. Dominique. 01 47 53 73 34.
Christian Constant has three restaurants on rue St. Dominique. He seems to own the 7th in terms of great food. Le Violon d’Ingres is his proper restaurant; Les Cocottes, next door, is the casual café with a bar where everyone sits together. We had the cream of lentil soup, which was excellent; plus, they have real ibérico ham from Spain. This place is wonderful. He also has Café Constant, down the street, which is a perfect café. They are all on the same block, so you can choose depending on your mood.